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Go Down ((full)) — Driver Side Window Won'tNo sound at all when you press the button; other windows might still work. Provides the power to move the glass. | Symptom | Likely Culprit | |--------|----------------| | No sound at all when pressing switch | Dead switch, blown fuse, or no power to motor | | Clicking or relay noise but no movement | Failed window motor (brushes worn out) | | Slow / struggling movement before stopping | Dried or dirty window tracks, failing regulator | | Window drops slightly then stops | Broken regulator cable or plastic slider | | Only works sometimes | Loose wiring, intermittent switch contact, or thermal overload in motor | | Passenger windows work fine | Problem isolated to driver’s door circuit | driver side window won't go down For vehicles with "One-Touch" (Express) features, if the window does not respond after a battery disconnect, try this reset procedure: No sound at all when you press the If you hear a but the glass doesn’t move, the regulator (the mechanical frame) has likely failed. If there is complete silence , the issue is often electrical. 8 Causes of Side Glass Not Working | Caliber.com If there is complete silence , the issue is often electrical | Cause | Repair Action | Estimated DIY Cost | Estimated Professional Cost | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | | Replace fuse with correct amperage. | $1 - $5 | $20 - $50 (Labor) | | Bad Switch | Replace window switch assembly. | $30 - $100 | $150 - $300 | | Broken Wiring | Splice and repair broken wires in door jamb. | $5 (Supplies) | $100 - $200 (Labor heavy) | | Failed Motor | Replace window motor. | $50 - $150 | $250 - $450 | | Broken Regulator | Replace regulator assembly. | $40 - $120 | $250 - $500 | | Calibration Lost | Perform "Window Reset" procedure. | $0 | $50 - $100 (Diag fee) | |